Bound for Burgundy

25th April, 2010 (Tony)

Just when you think we're starting to get a handle on this planet, Mother Nature vents her fury and throws the whole world into unprecedented chaos. Not only millions of travellers had their flights disrupted; concerts, major sporting events, funerals, and even company AGMs have had to be rescheduled. Just as well volcanoes and earthquakes are unpredictable. Imagine the panic and tirade of human behaviour at its worst if Iceland has issued a pre-announcement that a volcano was about to blow. As it was, the way some people reacted was disgusting. I gather that what the airlines lost, rail services gained (nothwithstanding that SNCF train drivers have persevered with random strikes for nearly a month) for as we passed under the TGV line at Montchanin and entered a lock, in fifteen minutes, three large TGV trains sped past in quick succession en route to Lyon. Normally one cannot get on a TGV train without a reserved seat but the entry and luggage compartments have been crammed with extra passengers sitting on luggage or the floor. Clear blue skies without a single vapour trail to be seen are rare over France and even the silence without aircraft overhead was noticeable. There was haze in the atmosphere for several days, but no spectacular sunsets, or settlement of dust — at least that we observed. Then again, it hasn't rained. The tangerine sediment all over the boat several weeks ago really did come from Africa. It's not an uncommon occurrence apparently. Fine and dry as talcum powder until absorbed by rain drops, I guess it doen't have the abrasive properties of volcanic ash to harm airplane engines. Here's hoping the Eyjafjallajokull volvcano settles back into doleful slumber for another hundred years or so. Qantas may have 10,000 passengers awaiting flights; Air France has 75,000.

To venture anywhere from Roanne means having to travel some distance along canals we have done before. But with all the time in the world, we have seized the opportunity to engage in the surrounding countryside and explore towns and villages beyond the reach of many bargees. First, get the motorbikes going. This proved a major frustration. Eventually I siphoned out the fuel tanks to discover more than ½-litre of filthy water resided at the bottom of each tank. Ruling out sabotage, I can only assume it was the accumulation of seven years condensation; or we bought the bottom of some petrol station's reservoir. Where were my motorbike-mechanic grandsons when I needed them? Finally got them running reasonably well although fine-tuning to the carburettors may still be required. Anyway, from Paray-le-Monial we rode to Charolles, a town we visited in September, 08. It deserves to be featured amongst the prettiest villages of France and offers panoramic vistas over beautiful Charolais countryside from the ramparts of the old walls above the town. From Génelard about a fifteen kilometre run took us to Guegnon whose only interest was the fact that it stars as a finish/start venue in this year's Tour de France. It will be interesting to see what the TV coverage of the Tour makes of Guegnon because we could not find anything worthwhile to warrant a visit to the place — and there's not too many French towns that are in that category.

At Montceau les Mines we walked for miles around the remnants of what was once one of the biggest open-cast coal mines in France, virtually in the centre of the city, now landscaped into lakes and green lawns and trees. Fascinating photograghs on marker boards at intervals around the place depicted scenes from 1752 when the coal was originally mined underground; in the mid-eighteen hundreds with the advent of mechanical diggers the mining converted to open-cast; with enforced labour it became a supplier to Germany under its occupation throughout WWII; and finally, struggling to remain viable with locomotives turning to diesel and power generation going nuclear, closed in 1977. At St Léger sur Dheune we cranked up the motorbikes and rode over the hills to Mercurey a quaint, ancient hamlet surrounded by vineyards that produce my favourite red burgundy. We chose a paddock at the end of a goat track overlooking the valley to sit among the vines and enjoy a picnic lunch and savour the ambience.

From Santenay we cycled, in shorts and tee-shirts, through tiny villages and vineyards on the lower slopes of the Côte de Beaune to Mersault, stopping occasionally to buy souvenirs from cellar doors of well-known vintners to stock the cupboard in readiness for family visitors in a couple of months time. Eight bottles in a backpack, twenty-five kilometre bike ride, not a bad workout! Everywhere workers were busily tending the vines, many replanting; or straining wires; or hammering-in stakes. We returned via the upper route through the Grand-Cru vineyards and were amazed to note the difference a few metres in elevation makes. The vines in the lower cloches were still in bud whereas on the upper slopes the buds had burst into leaf. Soon the whole region will be green with verdant growth. We never cease to be enraptured by the charm and beauty of the Bourgogne vineyards, whatever the season. We have just finished reading an intriguing book, Wine and War by Don & Petie Kladstrup that recounts tales of courageous and respected wine producing families who endeavoured to protect France's most precious wines from being pillaged by the Nazis.

We spent several nights at Fragnes, one of the nicest ports on the Canal du Centre. Chalons sur Saône is only five kilometres away but the port there refuses to accommodate boats longer than fifteen metres. It is a pleasant city, well worth a visit, so we biked into town (twice) for lunch and a wander around. There are some excellent restaurants in Chalons but we prefer the quayside restaurant at Fragnes where we've had memorable meals and are welcomed each time by the young couple who own it. Dinner on Friday night was no exception. Last night we dined there again with Patrick and Gill, bargees from Scotland whom we met a year ago at the same place. Carpaccio beef — raw and extremely finely sliced. Delicious. We sat outdoors tanning our limbs and enjoying a balmy evening until the sun dropped over the horizon right on nine o'clock. If this is spring, what's summer going to be like?

Today we exited the Canal du Centre and as we did last year cruised gently up the Saône to Verdun sur le Doubs proudly flying our big Aussie flag from the mast in honour of the ANZACs. Our visit here coincides with a marvellous plants/flower market in the square. Sally has gone off to buy petunias, and who knows what else... Next I'll be mowing lawn.

Spring is in the Air

9th April, 2010 (Sally)

Spring in France is always a special time, made even more so this year for the folks who wintered-over in Roanne as it was such a long cold winter. We arrived back at our second home to a countryside that was showing all the signs of the change of seasons. The first green growth on trees, daffodils, blossom, beds of full-flowering pansies and of course the major sign of spring in our area, dazzling white calves of the Charolais cattle.

This trip back was the first time we had come non-stop, and I mean Brisbane, Singapore, Paris then a train from the airport to Lyon and another to Roanne. Long and tiring but so nice to recover in the comfort and warmth on board Sable. We arrived midday to find a basic shop had been done for us by one of our friendly neighbours and in just a short time Tony had all systems up and running. By 6.30 we were able to collapse into our own bed and try and get the body clocks readjusted to northern time. The rest of the week was restocking the fridge, pantry and, yes, you have guessed, the wine racks.

Also time to get into the market and sample some of the delights of french food. Seven different cheeses in the fridge, boxes of strawberries and small melons from Spain and the first white asparagus just coming into season. Cold enough still for soup, so we have had our french onion soup; leek, bacon and potato; and very adventurously, french garlic soup [take 30 cloves of garlic] Mmmmmm... perhaps we may not try that one again. Boeuf bourguignon; Coq au Vin; Porc noisettes with prunes: I think I am trying to emmulate Julie and Julia and work my way through my favourite cookbook, "The Food of France." However the chapters on bread and patés I never even open, not when the shops are bursting with the best of both.

This year promises to be the year of the visitor, with several already booked and for our first time we actually left port with visitors aboard. Tony's sister and husband, Eleanor and Jim, have been touring Scotland and England so spent four days with us before carrying on to a tour of Italy. The respite between busy sightseeing was welcome and also a chance for them to experience our way of life. Jim was amazed at the comfort of Sable, and they enjoyed the peaceful vistas of the countryside as we cruised down the Roanne canal. The green of the paddocks, or should I say fields, provides a very picturesque background for the herds of cream Charolais cattle with their small white calves. We are in Charolais country here so one sees no other animals but these herds newly released from their winter shelters. The other striking image is the very large muck-heaps of winter bedding that is being emptied from the same sheds with the resulting odour. Well as they say, "Where there is muck there is money" and it is certainly true in this case. As a retired butcher Jim was impressed with the quality of the cattle; (you can take the man out of the butcher shop, but you can't take the butcher out of the man.) It is all very familiar country to us, our seventh trip along that same canal but still it has new delights and surprises. When we left port last year there was some consternation that this canal and several others may close as they were uneconomic and expensive to maintain. The various officials from Roanne and surrounding areas plus the bargees in port met and formed a 'Friends of the Canal' committee. It has been very effective, or perhaps it was just a ruse but we now find the canal is being maintained and at least two rallies are planned to take place in Roanne later this season. A relief for us as Roanne has become our home port and a very safe and comfortable place to leave our lovely Sable for the winter.

We spent a night at Digoin with El and Jim and eventually Paray le Monial where we put them on a bus back to Paris for their flight to Rome. Paray, where we have stayed several times, is a significant pilgrimage site in France, with a magnificent basilica and cloister gardens. The normally quiet town is host today to several busloads of tourists, or should I say pilgrims as the tours are all centered around the church buildings and we notice some of the parties are composed solely of priests and young priests in training.

As it is Spring, and in Spring one plants a garden, I have been busy resurrecting the flower pots and shopping for garden-mix and seedlings. We now have two troughs of pansies brightening our deck plus parsley, chives, tarragon, thyme and sage just waiting for the cook. So nice to have fresh herbs on board. Some bargees get very enthusiastic and last year we saw tomatoes and even a hydroponic setup that was planted with lettuce and other greens. Can't see the Captain entertaining that idea somehow. The skies over France, although seeming clear enough, must be laden once again with dust blown high up into the atmosphere from the Sahara Desert, for after two overnight showers Sable bears a film of brown mud! Imagine what one's washing-on-the-line would be like — certainly not rinsed clean. Perhaps that explains why one rarely sees clothes hung out to dry, especially overnight. Tony is busy scrubbing Sable as I write; not his favourite pastime.