HEADING HOME

26TH September, 2015 (Tony)

France’s exceptionally hot summer ended on 31st August. We moored at a small timber quay at the tiny but very pretty village of Riaucourt where a shady shelter attached to an ancient pigeon loft, preserved for its uniqueness, provided picnic tables — a perfect setting for an evening barbecue. It was one of those beautiful evenings that will linger in our memories for years to come, temperature well into the 30’s. Next morning we were awakened by the heaviest rain we’ve ever encountered in France. The rain eased by about 10:30 am and we set off for Chaumont and although we have had many fine sunny days since, the temperature hasn’t risen above 25C. And now, with the equinox behind us there is a decided autumnal nip in the early morning air. Chaumont and Langres, a couple of days further up the Canal entre Champagne et Bourgogne are among our favourite towns to visit. Both occupy prominent hilltop positions with heavily fortified ramparts that are a joy to walk around and take in the panoramas over the countryside. They are both neat with many restored historic landmarks. Walking up to Chaumont isn’t so bad, but Langres always makes us sigh with gratitude that we have motorbikes to relieve the 3km plod up the steep road. The port at Langres is only two locks shy of the top pound and 4.8km tunnel at the summit of the canal, one of the highest elevations of all French waterways. The small village of Balesmes is nestled in a little valley directly above the tunnel. At the head of this valley the Marne springs from the limestone layers under the hill above and commences its long meander down through Champagne to the Seine just before Paris. We set off on Father’s Day morning on our motorbikes to find the source of the Marne. A clearly marked path leads through the forest from the carpark to a small crystal clear stream emanating from under an iron gate set in a concrete bunker that looks like a tomb or shrine. In fact it probably was a reconstructed shrine as the Romans were known to have worshiped at the source of most venerated rivers. Nearby is a cave where Sabinus, a grandson of Julius Caesar, hid for several years after leading a failed revolt against the local Roman authorities before being captured and taken back to Rome to suffer a grisly execution. We then headed back into Langres to enjoy a sumptuous lunch at a superb restaurant that would rate among the best we have experienced. We decided some time ago that we would rather eat out occasionally and well than suffer repasts that one could cook equally as well, or better, at home.

We stopped twice between Chaumont and Langres. First at Foulain which is completely insignificant except it is the closest port to Nogent. Last time we biked the 7km to this town, world renowned for its forges that have produced knives, scissors and surgical tools for several hundred years. The final 1.5km up the hill to the town nearly finished us so this time we took the motorbikes. We dropped into the Coutellerie Musée expecting to spend half-an-hour looking at a few ordinary objects but were totally blown away by the superb exhibition of hand-crafted pieces on display, such as a tiny pair of embroidery scissors with delicately carved ivory handles which took more than a month to make for Marie Antoinette. Even more fascinating was a film showing a craftsman belting away at a couple of lumps of red hot steel on a forge and magically producing a top-of-the-range pair of tailor’s scissors. Another film followed the production, by hand, of a bone-handled pocket knife complete with two blades and its range of accessory tools. Only a few craftsmen remain these days making such things in their home workshops. The whole industry of hand production is in limbo as it is nigh impossible to meet WPH&S standards. Even viewing the film, watching the cutting and sharpening of tools, fingers only millimetres away from saw blades and grindstones caused us to shudder. Nowadays the factories churn out titanium knee and hip joints and super special surgical tools and specialized items. Judging by the number of cars in the carparks a considerable number of workers are employed. Then, at a tiny place called Rolampont, we went for a bike ride (push bikes) and discovered another fascinating geological marvel — the source of the Tufière. Hidden deep in a forest is an amazing cascade of fossilized limestone outcrops covered in a unique moss (Tufa) that has trapped ponds of blue-coloured water. The moss takes in carbon gas emitted from decomposing Calcium Bi-carbonate in the ponds by way of photosynthesis, leaving calcium to precipitate in the moss and over thousands of years this forms the terraces and ponds. The overall effect is colourful and very pretty. We haven’t seen or known anything like this before. Authorities have taken care to carefully protect the site whilst providing defined pathways and viewing platforms for the public. The source of the stream that feeds the ponds is an artesian spring only a hundred metres or so further up the hill but the volume of water is far greater than the source of the Marne into which it flows after a journey of barely more than a kilometre. So we have now visited the sources of the Seine; the Saône; the Yonne; the Marne; and the Tufière.

From the tunnel down to the Saône is nowhere near as interesting as the ascent from Vitry le Francois to Langres, with few villages or stopping places, so we put in several long days in order to get to Auxonne to meet Russell and Katrina who had been on a hire boat in the south-west (Charentes) and were keen to look at boats for sale. We had planned to meet them at St Jean de Losne where a special weekend parade of boats on the market was taking place but we suggested they join us a day early and cruise with us on Sable down to St Jean de Losne. H2O had more than 50 boats of all types and sizes on display, all scrubbed and polished and there may have been several that drew their attention. It was a beautiful day and as we lunched on the top deck we were delighted to catch up with Roger and Ruth (Romany) and Dave and Carol (Inevitable), boating friends we hadn’t seen for several years. Russell and Katrina kindly took us out to dinner and we bade them farewell as they were due to catch an early morning train to Paris before heading home to Cairns. We returned to Sable to find an 80m River Cruise ship towering over her stern. Because of all the frenzy in port we decided to leave St Jean de Losne early next morning. We set off in glorious sunshine but by lunch time it was teeming. We were off the Saône and into the Canal du Centre by 4:40pm. The quay at Fragnes was fully taken up by hire boats and others but our favourite spot under the giant weeping willow in front of the school was vacant; only thing was they are still working on upgrading the embankment (after 2 years) so we had to hammer spikes into the grass bank —  easy after all the rain. Less than an hour later a much bigger pleasure craft than ours steamed past on full throttle and tore out all our spikes; ripped out the electrical cable and cast Sable adrift. Luckily we saw it was going to happen and I leaped ashore just in time to grab one of the ropes and very loudly hurled some aussie expletives at the offenders who couldn’t understand my outrage. Fortunately, this time school was closed so my verbage was not picked up by any French pupils, unlike the incident involving a bath mat lost overboard at the same spot a couple of years ago. We waited for a couple of days at Fragnes to welcome aboard Deb and Mark, then set off for Chagny.  We all took the train to Dijon to enjoy a sunny day wandering the city. Deb went on a shoe-shopping spree; we revisited the Musee des Beaux Arts to marvel at the fine ivory carvings around the tombs of the Ducs de Bourgogne and magnificent old paintings. Dijon is under constant renovation and looks better every time we go there. A wonderful city always abuzz with activity due the large student population. We returned to Chagny to sample a bottle of champagne before going out to dine at Pierre & Jean’s excellent restaurant which never disappoints.

It is impossible to pass by Santenay without making a bike ride into the Burgundy vineyards. This year’s harvest was virtually over, only the vines in the lowest clos still being picked. They are predicting a top vintage, the very hot summer restricting the juice in the grapes but intensifying the flavour. It is difficult to know and comprehend Burgundy wines unless one has deep pockets but we learn a little more every year and are becoming better at identifying good pinot-noir and particularly chardonnay at reasonable prices. Mark and Deb’s research is always invaluable too. We took care to moor Sable at St Léger sur Dheune at a spot guaranteed to get satellite TV signal to watch the opening game of the Rugby World Cup. A pre-dinner glass of champagne on a picnic table in the shade of trees just beginning to show a tinge of autumn colour set the tone before we adjourned indoors to watch the match. Next day we cruised to St Julien a very pretty port where, the following morning in a blanket of fog, we bade farewell to Mark and Deb. Up and through the final chain of eight locks to Montchanin at the summit of Canal du Centre. We biked around the lake that acts as a reservoir for the canal, the cause of early closure for last three years — no concerns this year after all the recent rain — and up into the nearby hills. This ride and a motorbike trip from Genelard into the countryside confirmed our view that this region affords some of the prettiest rural scenery in France; rolling dales of lush green pasture, neatly trimmed hedgerows, groves of tall trees, tiny hamlets, contented cattle.

What a pleasure it was to receive an overnight visit from our 1995 Rotary exchange student, Delphine and sons Florent, 5, and Julien, 3. They cruised with us from Genelard down to Paray le Monial, the boys excited to play the role of ship’s captain. Sadly, Francois was obliged to remain at their home in the Rhone-Alpes near Grenoble to oversee renovations that have dragged on long past the promised completion date. It was delightful to be reunited, albeit too briefly, and to catch up on her achievements. A final week of cruising and we should be back in Roanne. What a fabulous summer.