Champagne Again
/4th August, 2012 (Sally}
Our stay in Rethel was extended when we woke one morning to find water running down the inside wall of our bedroom. A small weld in the corner of the foredeck that had long looked suspicious had finally failed and the incessant rain had found its way in. Luckily we were able to contact a workman with a welder in his van and he called on the first fine day and all was quickly and expertly repaired. It meant a full spring clean and wash of every winter jumper in my cupboard but a good chance to decide that if they hadn't been worn this year they were definitely past their use-by date.
It was also at Rethel that we met up with Miles and Skye, on their way back from Paris to Germany to collect Skye's Dad and return to Australia. We were delighted to pop the champagne and toast their recent engagement. Well what else do you do in Romantic Paris but "pop the question" — and where else but the Eiffel Tower.
From Rethel it is a short distance down the canal to a very quiet grassy mooring at Variscourt. There, five picnic tables, a water point and several shady trees, all donated as a memorial to a local soldier killed in the first months of WWII, honour his sacrifice. Much more appropriate than a plaque in the town square and obviously well appreciated by the locals as in the two days we were there it was constantly visited by family groups, walkers and of course the fishermen. The quiet did not last too long as we used the two days here to grind and sand all the spots on the front deck that have been waiting for attention all this long rainy summer. The farmers around were also making the most of the window of fine weather and for the first time we were seeing harvesters working to all hours of the night getting the crops in. Huge fields of wheat and canola which have been waiting for so long, turning grey. There must have been some anxious nights for the farmers.
Next day took us into the Canal de l'Aisne à la Marne, the pretty waterway that leads into Reims, city of cathedral, coronations and champagne. We moored just past the main marina on a quieter bank to find a water fête taking place on the roadway and canal right beside us. So we had front row seats to the paddle boats, ice cream stall and childrens' entertainment and they had the same to us. The city had provided free sun lounges and many people took advantage of them to sit looking over the water; and in some cases at us. The advantage for us was at night when it was all over the area was closed to traffic with a security guard in place so we had a very peaceful spot. We were joined here by Lorraine and Shirley Ann on their way home after their 4,500 km campervan trip around Germany, France and Holland. We sent them off to visit Taittinger Champagne cellars before meeting them outside the cathedral for a long leisurely lunch in one of the many restaurants. You cannot visit Reims without visiting the cathedral, it dominates the main square and for the first time we saw it without scaffolding over the front. (It has been moved to do some more work on the sides and back.) So much cleaning and renovation has been going on for so many years and still a lot to go. One shudders to think how much of France's GDP goes to the upkeep of hundreds of historic buildings. The cathedral recently celebrated its 800th anniversary. A sound and light show on the facade was commisioned for that and so successful was it that it has been reinstated this year for the summer months. We saw it on a magic balmy evening and were enthralled at the spectacle. Laser lights in all colours depicting the statues as they would have been painted when first carved and then a reinactment with silhouette figures of the stonemasons and carpenters working on the building followed by the pagentry of the coronations. A memorable evening in one of our favourite cities.
We needed to get to a major city to sort out the problem I had with my Mac computer. Since leaving Holland I had been unable to receive or send email. The changes in internet providers had caused one of those glitches that are sent to test one. We were directed to the only Apple shop in Reims, a long bus journey to a huge complex in the outer suburbs. The problem was finally solved, the technician spent 2 hours, worked right through his lunch hour, and all for 40€. I don't know what was the most amazing: the 40€ bill, an Apple shop with only 2 customers in 2 hours, or a Frenchman missing his lunch. For those with a technical bent the problem was our previous (Dutch) providers were over-riding the latest (French) one and somewhere in the setting-up of my machine they had put in a program called MacKeeper which did not allow us to uninstall the unwanted providers. Now all is fixed and I am happy.
From Reims we have travelled all of 8 km to Sillery, nice quay, grassy park with shady trees and one of the best boulangerie/patisseries in France, plus of course easy riding distance to Champagne villages. We booked in for a fortnight and the day we arrived so did summer. Months of indifferent weather with never two consecutive fine days and then overnight a heatwave; 35C for several days, too hot to do anything but sit under the shade of the trees and read. It's still lovely now but not so hot and the painting has been done. Sable looks very smart with spotless white decks and sides. It has been a good chance to keep an eye on the Olympics in real time. After weeks of very negative press it is good to see London doing it in such style. The venues have been breathtaking, equestrian at Greenich Park, beach volley ball at Horse Guards and the time trial at Hampton Court to name a few, but the one that tops them all is the rowing course. Eton College built it for themselves and then offered it to the Olympic Games. What wealth does that school have that they can build a course of that quality?
We have had the motor bikes off and done a couple of long rides in the countryside. They have been locked on board for a year as one needs them registered on the roads in Holland so was good to be out and about again and get up into the higher roads to enjoy the sweeping views over vineyards, wheatfields and occasional field of sunflowers. We stopped in the small village of Chigny les Roses, pretty name for a very pretty village. Population 553, no shops but a notice board showing the location of the 41 champagne houses. It is a feature of all the small villages in this area, there are no shops or other facilities, nothing matters except champagne. Our first night in Sillery we were woken at 1.00 am by a thump on the boat caused by a couple of lads trying to remove our bikes. Fortunately they were securely locked to the deck but they did get away with our wooden outdoor chairs from our front deck though one was dropped in the rush to get away. People on another boat lost their bikes so we are being a bit more careful about putting all things inside at night. In five years our only incident so we are thankful for that. We are here for a few more days, time enough to explore a few more villages and visit a few more cellars. Well, what else would one do in Champagne.