Champagne Again

25th June, 2011 (Tony)

After some long days cruising up the lower reaches of the Marne we were delighted to discover a brand new floating pontoon specifically built for pleasure boats, with free power and water, at Nanteuil on the north bank of the Marne. Is was to Nanteuil, in September 1914, that General Joffre sent the taxis he requisitioned in Paris. Five hundred at a time, the convoys of little red taxis delivered five soldiers each to this small village. It was a bold stategy that provided a big enough force to successfully drive a wedge in the German army's advance and thwart their plans to overrun Paris. It was a significant victory, albeit brief, for the French in what was to become a long and bitter war. Today, Nanteuil is recognised for having the first, or most western, champagne vineyards — all Pinot Meunier. This signalled a point to slow down, savour and sample the ambience, the beauty and tastes of champagne. It wasn't long before we had the motorbikes off and zoomed once again up to Mont de Bonneil where we enjoyed a picnic with most of our family last year; and to revisit the caves of Boucant Thierry. My backpack conveniently holds a half-dozen case so why buy any less? Especially when more family is due to arrive... Thus we meandered — to Chateau Thierry, Binson-et-Ourquigny, Reuil, Damery and Epernay; sampling and shopping along the way. Our trusty motorbikes took us up to many of Champagne's beautiful, and bountiful, villages: Chatillon sur Marne, Cuchery, Fleury la Rivière, Venteuil, Cumières etc, villages that are mostly beyond the reach of bargees without motorised transport. It would be a tragedy to travel through Champagne without visiting them.

This year, using Richard Juhlin's excellent, Champagne Guide (a gift from Debbie and Mark last year) we resolved to visit and buy champagne only from producers mentioned in the book. At least that narrowed the field to 528. The other 4,200 can wait for another time. So far we've managed to tick only twenty four — all highly recommended. Another half-dozen we sampled via the supermarket. There were several others that weren't open. We're not sure if that was their loss or ours. Another year...

After a very pleasant weekend stopover in Epernay, where we walked the town several times, did a tour of Castellane's extensive underground caves and climbed the tower, and lunched sulubriously washed down with a half-bottle of Gosset Grande Réserve, we set off up the Canal Aisne à Marne. It is such a pity there is nowhere to moor at Ay because it is home to some prestigious champagne brands — Gosset, Bollinger, Henri Giraud, Richard Fliniaux, etc, etc. However a mooring to the bank at Mareuil sur Ay, though tenuous, is only a couple of kilometres further on. It also is the base for several well known names, such as Billecart-Salmon. So a jaunt back to Ay on the bikes wasn't too strenuous considering the reward of more champagne to replenish the cellar. We paused long enough at Tours sur Marne to wander around the town and look, but not sample, the headquarters of five-star récoltants based in Tours. From Condé further ventures on motorbikes into the gorgeous countryside enabled us to explore Bouzy and Ambonnay, two towns that are not only a must-visit for their picturesque beauty but also for the renowned champagnes that emanate from their cellars. We parked-up at Sillery to await the arrival from Australia of Gray and Suellen; and Elsie and Joey. Gray and Suellen, and Sally a couple of times while we were at home, have been attending Bernadette O'Shea's champagne appreciation classes in Brisbane. Consequently they have developed a fine sense of taste and knowledge of champagnes that are a cut above the ordinary — if there could possibly be such a distinction. Not surprisingly, the day after they arrived they revelled in the opportunity to take a motorbike ride up to Mailly Champagne, Verzenay and Verzy to seek out for themselves some excellent bottles of bubbly. There are a couple of highly-rated producers in Sillery who also contributed to their haul. And to prove to the kids that we are not totally champagne-obsessive we biked them up to Fort de la Pompelle an authentically restored fort which, like Verdun, never fell into enemy hands.

And so to Reims where Gray and Suellen had appointments booked in advance, courtesy of Bernadette (author of Champagne and Chandeliers), for escorted tours of the maisons of Taittinger, Mumm, and Ruinart. I accompanied them to Taittinger; and Sally went to Mumm and Ruinart. In every instance we were all treated like royalty and on departing were handed a gift pack of their special nectar. Our fridge is labouring under the constant strain of trying to maintain at least two bottles of champagne cool for sampling each evening. It's ok for the food to go off as long as the champagne is cold! We are all agreed; the standout champagne tasted so far is a Louis Roederer Brut Premier. Enough of that... I know how bored you must be with our infatuation with this region and its solution. We were in Reims for the Fête de Musique, an annual celebration of every form of music that coincides with the summer solstice. We all enjoyed a lovely meal outdoors at a restaurant in the middle of town before joining the throngs of locals relishing the free musical entertainment throughout the city, although we retired long before they did.

The weather throughout June has been cooler than the fabulous days we enjoyed in April and May. And there has been a lot of rain, which no doubt has brought relief to the farmers and vignerons who only a month ago imagined they had been transported to Australia's outback. Next, they'll be complaining they can't harvest the already ripened grain crops. Yesterday we bade farewell to Champagne and set off up the Aisne