Metz and Moselle

June, 13th 2009 (Tony).

Metz is a gem. Notwithstanding that France is the most popular tourist destination in the world and despite all that we have read about places before we get there, Metz, "City of Light," came as a complete surprise. This city is gorgeous and worthy of its distinction as winner of the European Floral First Prize with extensive botanic gardens and parks. Brimming with young people — it has a large university — and three thousand years of history, it proudly displays an eclectic mixture of striking architectural forms. Lorraine was ceded to Germany in 1870 after Napolean III's debacle (known as the Franco-Prussian War). It was thus spared from damage in WWI and was returned to France under the terms of the Treaty of Versailles. Metz bore the brunt of some heavy shelling in September 1944 when Gen Walker's 20th Corps, part of Patton's 3rd Army, forced the Germans out of town, again. The city has retained some splendid relics of its German period of governance including the portentious railway station and Governor's residence, and 'fairy-floss' protestant church which stands in defiance of the prominent catholic cathedral (built 1200 - 1500). It takes something special to get me to venture inside a cathedral any more, having seen a few in our travels, but St Etienne's has the highest nave in all France (42 m) and 6,500 sq m of stained glass, including a number of stunning windows created by Chagall. Chartres is nothing compared to this! And the whole building is in remarkably sound condition — a must see! If I ever mention another cathedral, believe me, it will have to be good.

After the near-disaster with the gas rupture, we set off down the Moselle from Epinal and paused for several days at Charmes where we rode our bikes to the top of a hill overlooking most of Lorraine. A large monument to commemorate General Castelnau's forces' successful resistance to the German invasion in August, 1914, albeit brief, dominates the summit. His temporary triumph here caused the enemy to concentrate their attention on Verdun, almost visible, slightly further west. Charmes has a delightful mooring place, marred only by about a hundred motorhomes parked adjacent to the quay. Presumably there must have been a rally of some kind for so many to be gathered in the one place. We were joined at Charmes by Allan and Bev, 70's friends from Christchurch, NZ. It was great to catch up on news and reminisce over the fun times we had at the tennis club. They spent several days aboard as we gently (I almost said quietly, but that wouldn't be accurate) cruised on downstream to Toul.

Toul was largely disappointing. Somehow it didn't live up to expectations, the cathedral for all its intricate design and ornate stonework is in a dilapidated state and the town centre seemed to lack any liveliness or character. Vauban's fortified star-shaped ramparts enclosing the old town are admirable and we enjoyed a cycle ride around them. How many man-hours went into building such places? They must have presented a daunting image to would-be invaders. The water in the port was crystal clear but full of weed. Our English neighbour dragged out about half a ton of it with a grappling hook. I am not sure if the authorities would have appreciated his efforts. I rather fancy they would have been dismayed for he left it in stinking piles for them to clean up. Still, better than round our propeller.

After Richardmenil, where we spent a very pleasant evening, the canal splits in two. The right branch, presently closed, leads round to the Canal Marne au Rhin, which we will enter in a couple of weeks on our journey to Strasbourg, whereas the left fork leads directly into the river Moselle. Almost immediately this becomes a major commercial waterway although it meanders serenely through unspoiled, heavily forested countryside. Barges, some as long as 135m and carrying up to 4,500 tonnes of grain, coal, gravel, scrap steel etc abound. It is quite intimidating to be waiting at a lock, only to have the gates open and to be confronted by one of these enormous hulks bearing down on our little tub. Some are so laden and low in the water it is amazing they remain afloat. Because we intend to go down the Moselle and return up the Sarre (their confluence is in Germany and we will be, for a day or two, in Luxembourg) we are unlikely to return to Nancy which is on a canal about midway between the two rivers, in Sable. So we took the train, with Allan and Bev, and spent a day exploring this lovely town. Nancy has a grand town square with elaborate wrought iron gates and wonderful statues, and nearby, beautiful parks and gardens. The roses were an absolute picture. At Allan's encouragement we visited the museum of fine arts and were impressed with the scale and quality of the paintings displayed. There is no shortage of museums and art galleries in France, just choosing which ones to see is a challenge.

We seem to have developed a penchant for climbing hills. Mont St Michel, at Toul, conceals a massive old fort now almost completely overgrown by trees. In its day it must have been a formidable barrier and garrison. There are thousands of similar edifices all over France. The trees, no doubt younger than me, unfortunately obscured what should have been a fine vista. Not so at Mousson. The highest promintory for miles around stands sentinel over Pont a Mousson where in 1944 US troops suffered more than two thousand casualties forcing a bridgehead over the Moselle. After a long, steep climb to the summit, encircled by the ruins of a huge chateau destroyed in the 16th century, one is rewarded by a magnificent panorama of the Moselle from Toul to Metz and beyond. But the real surprise was discovering a very neat and beautiful hamlet nestled beneath the old ruins. We surmised that most of the inhabitants must be retirees as every yard had a vegie garden to die for as well as raspberries, red currants, cherries and other delicious fruit. Most of the houses appear to have been rebuilt since WWII when virtually everything was blasted to smithereens by artillery.

About a week ago the canal between Roanne and Digoin breached, again, almost two years to the day since the last one, leaving a thirteen kilometre section devoid of water. VNF hope to effect repairs by mid-July but we have heard rumours that it may take until September to fix. We feel sorry for the twenty or so boats trapped in the port. Two we know were planning to leave the day after the bank burst into the Loire. Sad state of affairs. Sable and her previous owners were trapped in Roanne for seven weeks in 2007. Since leaving Roanne in March we have had very few wet days, although it has often rained at night. Mostly the weather has been great. Last week however a cold wind, unseasonal I suspect, frustrated our endeavours to venture far into the countryside. The upside to that was to remain indoors and watch hours of French Open Tennis, live. And Pres Obama's visit to Normandy and the D-day 65th commemoration. Hopefully that wind has now blown itself out. Last evening, at 9:30pm we licked ice cream sundaes, in broad daylight, in the town square. Summer is here. Today we expect close to 30°C so a barbeque up on top could be the go with Rotary friends Merv and Glenda fresh off the TGV from Paris.