Cruising Again

Week 30 — March 8th - 29th (Sally).

Well here we are cruising again. We left Roanne on Wednesday the 19th March. We asked for the locks to be opened for us as we both were keen to get under weigh. About a dozen other boaties came down to see us off, and I think everyone of them was wishing they were also under weigh. Our good neighbours Christian and Charlotte put their bikes aboard and came with us for the first 12kms before leaving us and cycling back along the tow path or should I say "Le Chemin de Haulage". Yes the french is improving, albeit slower than we would wish. We did have a private tutor for a couple of lessons before we left and she has set us a series of homework and a website to peruse. A little like our very own "School of the Air."

We have also programmed our TV to French channels and are trying to follow the latest soap operas and game shows, not that we are that interested in either but there is a lot of repetition which does help things sink into an aging brain.

Our cruising is retracing the route that we took last year, down the Roanne Canal of course as it is the only way to leave Roanne, then up the Canal Lateral a la Loire to Briare and over the top via the canal Le Loing to meet up with la Seine and sail through Paris. We are on our way to la Somme where Tony is booked to spend five days with Peter James doing an Anzac Day Tour of the Western Front. The programme they have for the tour is amazing but I know he will tell you all about that at a later date.

It has been interesting seeing the same countryside but in a different season. Last year we were admiring Autumn colours and seeing the harvest coming in. This year it is all bare branches, wild flowers all along the canal banks and the smidgen of green that we saw in the beginning growing every day as more and more trees show their first Spring growth. There are so many extra chateaux and farm houses on view that last year were hidden by the trees so there are advantages in starting early. We also have had the canals to ourselves, not another boat in sight for the first week but that has changed since Easter and we now are seeing just a few other hardy souls. Hardy souls!!! Yes did I forget to mention the snow. We woke to a white world on our third day out of port but at least it cleared reasonably quickly then on Easter Monday when we were nice and snug in Nevers we spent a very pleasant day tucked inside with our books while the snow sat all day. Since then the old saying "March comes in like a lion and goes out like a lamb" is proving true. We have had a lions share of rain and cold and are now enjoying mild sunny days. Long may it continue.

Having the car is giving us a little more scope to enjoy exploring and we used it to good advantage at Sancerre. This is a beautiful village in the heart of the Pouilly-Fumée/Sancerre wine district. We drove to Sancerre which sits high above the vineyards and the Loire valley and after enjoying a scrumptious lunch decided to investigate the wine we had had with the meal. So on to Chavignol, a small village [120 people] totally surrounded by vineyards and with at least a dozen tasting cellars. Henri Bourgoise is obviously the biggest with even a vineyard in New Zealand and we had a very informative afternoon learning the difference between the two areas around Sancerre. Needless to say the lesson we received was well rewarded as we left with a good supply of their wines. Now all we require is some visitors to help us drink them.

After Chavignol we drove to Guedelon, the very interesting building site where they are building a castle in an abandoned quarry using tools and methods from the 13th century. There is a permanent work force of 35: stone masons, carpenters, blacksmith, rope maker, potter and osier and even their tools are made on site. All very authentic but we couldn't help wondering WHY??? With the dozens of castles, chateaux etc crying out for repair, why build another one. It was started in 1996 and will take 25 years to complete and we could see why but not understand why.

From Sancerre we went on to Briare with its wonderful pont-canal over the Loire. Always a thrill to sail over that and as it was Saturday afternoon the tourists were out in numbers all with their cameras so we now feature in inumerable holiday snaps. "Sable crossing the Briare Pont-Canal." Briare is so close to the Loire Valley with all the Chateaux. Where do you start? We spent a wet Sunday driving to Albigny sur Nère, an unique Scottish village in the heart of France. Given to John Stuart in 1462 as a reward for helping France end the 100 year war it then became the refuge of Scots Royalty. Rather strange to find The Cutty Sark Inn, and Scot's tartan next door to the Boulangerie and the Charcuterie. Went on to Verriere, a Chateau built by the same Stuart with a very nice resturant. What better way to spend a wet Sunday than in front of an open fire enjoying fine french food. So we did. Just to add to the atmosphere, the fireplace backing was a beautiful piece of cast iron work embossed with the shields of France and Scotland. We admired it through the lens of a glass of red wine then went home for a nanna nap. Well, we are retired and one is allowed such treats occasionally.

Yesterday and today we have sailed up a series of locks to reach the plateau between the Loire and The Loing and have now descended the other side. Nineteen locks in one day may be my limit, especially as some of them were 4 m deep. An amazing feat of engineering that was done so many years ago and so good that it has been restored and brings so many tourists to these little French villages. Most of them have made an effort to make the boats welcome, providing good moorings with electricity and water and we repay them with visits to patisseries, charcuteries, epiceries etc. Tonight we are at Montargis, the Venice of the Gatinais with a host of small canals, cute bridges and the best chocolate shops we have ever seen anywhere. We have just visited the creme de la creme. As we entered the assistant asked if we would like to taste their specialities. So we did. Then she gave us their mail order catalogue. By this time someone was salivating.. He then suggested that perhaps we should have a [large] box on board for guests!! I was surprised we escaped as lightly as we did. Mind you we are not leaving 'til tomorrow so perhaps another visit is in order.