Dijon

20th June, 2013 (Sally)

Knowing we would be held up before we could negotiate the flooded Saône we took our time through the lower reaches of Burgundy. Chagny is only a few kilometres from Santenay but with a good place to pause and as it was a cold wet day, a good excuse to sample one more of the recommendations in Shannon Bennett's book. Maison Lameloise is a renowned food stop in the town, with an extensive and expensive menu which befits its 3-Michelin star status. However just around the corner is Pierre & Jean, the bistro named after the present owner's father and grandfather and a perfect place for a leisurely lunch on a miserable day. The building was an 18thC wine storage area, vaulted ceiling, timber beams with a mezzanine floor added for extra space. Our meals were superb, my veal could have been cut with a butter knife it was so tender and Tony's duck breast was equally so. We declined desert but were offered and accepted Coffee Gourmand which was a small coffee and four tiny desserts, a mouthful each but what a mouthful. Definitely on our next stop when we are there again.

At Fragnes, the last mooring on the Canal du Centre we caught up with all the other boats who had made such a rush to be here, all waiting to hear if the Saône was safe. At one stage I counted eight boats all waiting to venture out. We cycled to Chalon sur Saône on the Saturday to have a look at the river and were sufficiently reassured by the colour and the flow that it was good to go so Monday morning off we went. Of course in the meantime there had been flooding in Germany and various other parts of Europe, enough to cause some run off in the Doubs which empties into the Saône 30km north of where we entered. Instead of the green flow we were expecting it was a muddy rapid river but still able with a few more revs on the engine to be navigated. We knew once we reached the junction of the two rivers it would be easier, however about 5kms before the confluence we came upon a 1,076 tonne fully laden gravel barge stranded in the middle of the river. He welcomed us with open arms, his french was non-existent or a dialect we could not understand but it was made clear to us that he wanted us to push him 500 metres upstream to a landing we could see. Ridiculous, but with the boats tied together we attempted and surprisingly managed to move him at least to the top of his anchor chain. Another barge arrived, slightly smaller than ours and he too was co-opted but the commercial was having trouble with their anchor winch (probably just as well. otherwise we might all have ended up in the Mediterranean); and after an hour of struggling he had to admit defeat and let us carry on without him in tow. They looked to be financially struggling, as well as mechanically, which I'm sure explains why he wasn't phoning for professional help but realistically he had no choice. At the very least we provided entertainment for the hire boats passing so am sure we will feature in quite a few holiday snaps with the catch phrase, "What were they thinking..."

We made Dijon in time for the Dutch Barge Rally along with 18 other boats so there was a good display of various craft all bedecked in bunting and flags. The original total was supposed to be 27 but several never made it because of the weather, canal closures etc. One actually sunk after being holed on the river Yonne. The folk were rescued by another barge. Their loss was covered by insurance but a bit of a wake up call for all. We enjoyed the rally, various games and competitions, all in good fun, book swap, a couple of meals together and some interesting talks and demonstrations. Nice to put a face to a few of the names we see mentioned in the Blue Flag magazine; good that some people want to deal with officialdom in both countries. Monday morning most boats left and we found ourselves a nice mooring with power and water and have settled down here for two weeks to await the arrival of Gray and Suellen and to do some long needed painting. An added bonus for us was when we went to find the Capitain to pay for the mooring we found that due to some unresolved dispute they have no one in charge of the port and therefore no one to collect port fees. So here we are for two or three weeks, central Dijon, power and water supplied and completely free. Now in the second year of the dispute, with moorings for about 50 boats at 80€ a week one would think wiser heads would prevail. Tony has cleaned and repainted the side decks, and today is finishing off all the bollards. Hard to believe after the wettest Spring in 50 years we have spent the last two weeks dodging the sun. Yesterday was so hot we took the deck chairs and settled under the shade of some trees with a good book and I have a feeling today may be no different. Of constant interest to us and a good number of the townsfolk are the number of birdlife that inhabit the port. The island in the middle of the port is a wonderful nesting place for geese, ducks and coots with occasional herons. After a very late start due to the cold weather we now have a number of goslings and ducklings newly hatched patrolling the water and looking for handouts from all and sundry. The geese are wonderful parents, one youngster in particular has a family of three guardians who march around watching his every move and any other bird that comes close gets a very short shrift. An angry goose is not to be trifled with, as a few walkers with dogs have learned.

Dijon is a lovely town, the centre is a warren of little streets leading to inviting squares lined with cafes and restaurants. It was the capital of the Dukes of Burgundy who built up one of the most powerful states in Europe reaching into Belgium and parts of Holland. They supported many of the painters of the day and have an impressive collection housed in the original Palais des Ducs, now the Musée des Beaux Arts. A must-stop in the collection is the room housing the tombs of the Dukes, each one supported by a procession of carved mourners united in their grief. Unfortunately for me on a recent visit, after an hour of studying paintings I searched for the room housing the tombs only to be told it was closed and will not reopen until September. The Musée is undergoing a 60€ million renovation and in the meantime they have sent one of the tombs, on an extended tour of various galleries in USA. One presumes the body of the aforesaid Duc has remained behind. The whole Palais is included in the renovation with the courtyard being converted into a covered cafe and a facelift to the outside. I only hope it does not lose the feel of the original Palais and become a modern gallery. Today one wanders through 15th century rooms complete with creaking oak parquet floors and panelled walls much as it was in the time of Philippe le Bon.

The new tram system that has ben installed since our last visit is a great success. We have used it a few times, 3.60€ for a 24h pass. It is smooth, efficent and constantly full. One can only hope the Gold Coast system once it is in place will be as well used. The secret has to be in making it affordable. Tomorrow is the annual music day in France, where every street corner or square becomes a platform for various artists to display their musical talents. Always good fun and an excuse to sit and sip in the sun or the shade and enjoy the ambience. Dijon also supports more shoe shops than any other town. I counted 15 last time we walked through, and as the sales start next week we expect Suellen to contribute freely to the French economy.